Weather – learn to check the weather and interpret its consequences for cycling:

Wind – very strong winds make road riding very dangerous unless you live in a very sheltered area. Strong and gusty side winds are hard to predict and can cause dangerous swerves.

Riding on days of steady, strong winds is possible. However, try to plan your route so that you avoid exposed coasts, hills and moorland.

Know what direction the wind will be blowing from. Most of Britain has prevailing winds from the West. Plan your rides so that you start into the headwind when you are fresh and return with a tailwind to help you when you are tired.

Learn to use the excellent weather forecasting and information services now available – Ceefax page 401 gives national weather and page 402 gives local weather. Also try the weather section of the www.bbc.co.uk website – learn to use the wind and rain maps. Similarly detailed weather info is available at www.metoffice.gov.uk  

Watch out for breaks in the weather and plan your rides to fit in with them – there’s some lovely riding to be had on calm, crisp winter days – don’t miss out because you didn’t know they were coming.

Ice and Snow sure looks purdy, and offers a bike handling challenge, but NOT ON THE ROAD. With only two tyres in contact with the road, icy surfaces can lead to very rapid problems for cyclists. Learn to spot the signs – crunching sounds, reflections from ice crystals (especially obvious at night with sodium lamps shining on them). Don’t forget that in ice or snow, it won’t be just you having trouble keeping control – vehicle drivers will be experiencing similar problems and add to the danger.

Wind Chill – you will always feel cooler cycling than walking, because your greater speed leads to artificial wind and air passage over your body. Ride downhill at 20mph on a calm day and you are facing a self generated 20mph wind. In winter, by cycling, you can turn a cold but still day into a howling gale if you ride down a long descent. Ride at 10mph into a 20mph headwind and you are facing a 30mph icy blast. Correct clothing can help, as can avoiding long descents. Windstopper garments such as gilets are your first line of defence.

Rain – heavy soaking rain, even on relatively mild days, can chill you very rapidly. Extremities suffer first – feet, hands, ears and face and these areas are all well supplied with nerves, so discomfort will be marked. There’s nothing worse than knowing you’ve still got a long way to go and that your feet or hands are already freezing.

Ride Ideas: Don't make the mistake of thinking what works or what's fun in the summer must work in the winter. Adapt to the conditions and keep your riding fun

Shorten your rides and aim to make them more fun. Staying close to home allows you to run for home if the weather turns. It also removes the anxiety which might be a barrier to continuing to ride in winter.
Plan circular routes on quiet roads – one bonus of winter is less travelling and therefore less cars, especially in the countryside, even near beauty spots. Explore your local area and throw in a bit of canal towpath or cycle track to mix things up.

Sharp: Make your rides brisk and purposeful – a short, sharp 50 minutes of hard effort is always going to be more fun and more effective than a couple of hours of steady slog.

Combine a bike ride with some other activity. Ride for 30 mins and then return home and run or jog for 30 minutes. Ride to a beauty spot and then go for a jog along a footpath, which would be out of bounds to you as a cyclist. Cycle to the swimming pool.

Skills: Work on your cycling skills – perhaps try tackling a ride with a series of short, steep hills and build your leg-strength and technique whilst getting a good workout.

Bike Preparation: Your bike will need more TLC and a few tweaks to get the best out of winter riding.

Mudguards are unsightly, but they are amazingly effective. They keep you and your bike clean. Even the flexible half-guards available for mountain bikes make a big difference.

Clean your bike after every ride. Dirt comes off best if it’s removed as soon as possible after it’s got onto your bike.

Road salt can ruin unprotected components like the transmission, especially the chain and bearings. It speeds up corrosion and wrecks the surface finish of metal components. Again clean, or at least hose off your bike after every ride and re-lubricate.

Lights: A good set of lights is critical for winter riding. The type of light you buy depends on where you intend to ride. If you live in the countryside, you’ll need lights that you can see by – if you live in urban areas, you’re more than likely riding on lit roads, so lights that make you noticeable are more appropriate. LED lighting has really come of age in recent years, with basic LED’s bright enough to make you visible, and more costly units bright enough to see by. To keep the right side of the law, you must have the following: either a steady lamp that conforms to British Standards or a flashing unit which emits at least 4 candela. To conform to the law you must also have pedal reflectors and front and rear reflectors on your bike. We also recommend having a backup lighting system in case your main lighting fails.

Go Simple: A singlespeed conversion or fixed wheel bike can cut down on huge amounts of maintenance. No gear cables, and less nooks and crannies to get encrusted with road salt. Not for everyone, but worth a go if your riding is fairly flat.