Walney to Wear - Part 2
Words and Pics by Phil Ingham
Feature Posted: 15 June 2007
Five riders and an assorted caravan of supporters and hangers on tackle the Walney to Wear road-based route, coast-to-coast across the North of England. Would they all make it to the finish? Find out in Part 2 of our three-part account of their adventures.
Day 2 – Breakfast: Decision Time
A good night’s sleep had benefited everyone, but Julie and Suzanne both decided to duck the second day’s riding. More rain is forecast and fifty miles of hill riding is more than they can face. The remaining riders are keen to continue and in the interests of supporting them I volunteer to join them on Julie’s bike. I’ve ridden it before and although a bit on the small side, it’s perfectly serviceable. More problematic is clothing – I’ve got a waterproof coat and wicking base layer, but the only shorts I have are simple cotton leisure items and footwear is a pair of leather trainers. Worse, I have no helmet or gloves.
Julie and Suzanne seem suspiciously happy with their change of role – they will help Sue amuse the kids and provide lunch for the cyclists. I join the cyclists for the short run by car to the start point of the day.
Above: The Pennines loom ahead
Day 2 – Morning: back in the saddle
We’re soon underway on a very minor road which runs Northwards initially and parallel to the M6 as it snakes through the Lune valley. Our route sticks with the motorway for several miles, ducks under it and then back under again before making a decisive change of direction Eastwards. Rain is soon falling and although it comes and goes for a time, it seems inevitable that it will set in properly at some stage.
We’re soon into wilder country, still on deserted and very minor roads. Occasional stands of trees are wind-bent and remind us that we are close to Shap, the highest points of both M6 and West Coast main-line railway. A long haul over moorland is leavened by the sight of a grouse shoot setting off across the heather.
As we approach the first town of the day – Kirkby Stephen, our stopping point of the previous night – the rain is falling relentlessly. I’m soaked below the waist, but we’re all in good spirits and there’s plenty of chat as John, Liz and Laura get warmed up. They are all strong cyclists and have thrown off any tiredness. I have the advantage on them of both freshness and being a regular cyclist, but I’m impressed by their pace.
Lunch is planned for the legendary Tan Hill pub, highest in England and high point of this route. However, on the route profile it’s a six-mile climb. We’re soon on it and climbing steadily with rain running down our faces. John and I gradually pull clear and we stop on several occasions to let Liz and Laura catch up. It’s no fun waiting as the rain threatens to chill us to the bone.
Above: Tan Hill in a rare moment of sunshine
As we finally top the climb, it dawns on me that the pub must still be several miles away. John and I shelter down behind a dry stone wall and look back down the road for the other two, the clouds brushing the moorland around us.
Having re-grouped briefly, Liz and Laura encourage John and I to go on ahead and we’re both happy to press on, keen to keep warm. Strong winds make the going hard and I pace John to the pub across some three miles of desolate upland plateau.
Lunch is taken in the lee of the pub from the back of the car and mercifully the rain has stopped briefly. I ignore the food until I’ve changed my base layer and coat and feeling much better join the other three as they tuck in to sandwiches, flapjack and fruit. A very tame chicken and friendly kleptomaniac sheep enliven proceedings and attempt various methods to relieve us of our lunch.
Above: Tame sheep meets hungry cyclist
Day 2 – Afternoon: the rain it raineth!
With re-fuelling completed we get underway again and are almost immediately enveloped in more driving rain. The route also goes off-road and downhill for a spell here and we find ourselves splashing along broad tracks awash with running water with sweeping clouds, blue skies and banks of rain alternating almost minute by minute.
Through farmyards, past barns, fields of sheep and rotting tractors, we are definitely descending and, perhaps leaving the high pennines behind. At lunch we decide to press on past the 50 mile point for the day and try to reach our overnight stop in Hamsterley Forest without being picked up by the vehicles.
The 50 mile point was actually the town of Barnard Castle and as we approach it we go through one of those treading-water spells you always seem to have on long rides – although the town is only a few miles from the edge of the high hills, we circle round without making a direct strike to the town: a sign pointing to the 5 miles town down the motorway-like A66 is next to another proclaiming our route to be 8 miles. And with wind and rain still present, and the terrain less exciting, the day begins to drag.
Above: Crossing the Tees at Barnard Castle
Finally reaching the town, we sweep through - via a wonderful footbridge which crosses the river Tees - and out the other side through a comedy housing development which seems to have an example of every house style, era and type, all in stone except for a small row of “punch-line” brick terraced houses. It’s not often architecture makes you laugh – perhaps it’s battle fatigue getting to us!
The final 15 or so miles of the day take us towards and then up onto the high ridge which overlooks the southern edge of Hamsterley Forest. This means more climbing, but at least it’s dry now. The final run into the depths of the forest, where our bunkhouse is located, is a cracker: conifers on all sides and a gentle mist rising all around in the evening sunlight (yes, sun!).
There’s also a bike shop on site and open, giving us chance to buy up a supply of brake blocks – the wet and hilly riding has eaten a full set on both Julie and Liz’s bikes and all the bikes benefit from a good once-over and a squirt of lube.
Above: Castles and Kids – a good mix
Day 2 – Evening Reflections
The bunkhouse is straight out of weekend school geology trip hell: dirty, damp, run-down and crumbling. But, you know, none of us cares. We’re in the self-sufficiency groove and as we all shower and sort ourselves out, the children dash around, loving the freedom. They’ve apparently had a day of castles, parks and tea-rooms and Julie, Sue and Suzanne have also had a great time. The mix of cycling and family activities seems to be working very well. One more day to go – I’m back in the car tomorrow, but I have to admit that I’ve just had one of my best ever days on a bike. The company had been good, with a high laughs per mile count and never noticed the undersized mountain bike and crap clothing.
Check out Part 3 next week!
Link to Part 1